Commissary at the LINE HOTEL – The Greenhouse

by Franklin on November 17, 2014

The Commissary at the Line Hotel was an interesting dining experience. The the concept here is quite unique and somewhat confusing. The greenhouse symbolizes the freshness of fruits and vegetables, yet this place is not a vegetarian restaurant. Commissary is very much a regular restaurant inside a beautiful greenhouse. The location and interior design is what draws everyone. I think the food could have been more exciting or less pretentious. The menu doesn’t even have a description of what you are getting. If its a fish dish, they just simply put, “fish.” If you are getting a burger, it just says “burger.” It’s kind of like, “you don’t need to know what you are eating, just eat it.”

The corn here was incredible. What we did was shave off the kernels from the cob and just mix it in with the ingredients. Definitely an ode the to Mexican street corn of LA, this hit the spot. The char on the corn really brought out the sugars and sweetness. Mixed in with the chili powder and tart aioli of some sort, it was a classic flavor combination. I liked that there was some cheese, but not a lot — this gave the corn a chance to really shine through.

The asparagus was quite delicious as well. The grilled asparagus paired with a tart lemon sauce was amazing. Some parts of the asparagus was tough, but all around had great flavor. The addition of the Parmesan was another ode to the Mexican style corn.

You order boring, and you get boring. Looking at the menu, we really wanted to give the burger a chance, but really didn’t want to. It really didn’t have much going for it. No side of fries, no perfectly medium rare beef patty, no soft delicious bun. It was just a normal burger. Again, it had a nice contrast of fatty beef and tart sauce, but that is all it had going for it. Come to think of it, all of these dishes had similar properties to it. I am beginning to see a trend here.

Eating at the Commissary was a fun experience, but the food was just average for me. Nothing was exciting, apart from the corn. Nothing stood out and really challenged my palate. The ingredients were indeed fresh and everything was prepared nicely. I just expected a lot more. Definitely though, this would be a nice spot to hang out during daylight to have a few bites and a drink. The atmosphere is perfect and the ambiance is just right.

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